AD110 firmware v1.000.00AC004.0.R.20200509

[xaikar]

i immediately changed the night vision setting back to 'auto' out of fear i might brick the doorbell.

THIS IS NOT OKAY! The device should not be this susceptible to bricking. I should also be able to give it a static IP as with the other Cameras.

Also if I disable the prompt when am I going to know when the fix for broadcasting to my neighborhood that the device is "SUCCESSFULLY CONNECTED TO NETWORK"

[Revo2Maxx]

There are only a few reasons that the camera would keep going on about connection to your network

1 Wifi to camera not good enough to keep it connected or router glitching (Reboot Router)
2 Power to Camera is not good enough... This might be caused by a Failing Transformer or bad wiring... This could be also a bad connection in the wiring...

There is a lot that is going on with these cameras. It could be that the camera is bad? It could be that the Caps they have in the system as Super caps are not good and don't store enough power to keep the camera running...

If you want to test if your camera has Bad capacitors (Caps) and this might not work if your system had bad wiring... So you take your camera and remove it from power right after it makes the message that it has connected to network and it should take any where form 40 seconds to over a minute for the Blue lights to turn off.. Infact if you press the button it should have enough power to send you the alert and even make a connection between the phone and camera for a few seconds before full power loss... If it goes out in less then 20 seconds and not even able to push button to send to your smart home app then there is a Cap issue and should seek a RMA...

I will go test mine again and see how long it takes to shut down after power is removed from the system... I am also going to meter the power needed to charge it back up to the point that the camera restores connection.. I do know that under static use the Power use is really low.. So a 30va transformer for most home doorbell systems should be more then enough unless they have large doorbell chimes that require that much then go with a 45va...

Will report back after I do my testing.. I am going to need some time because I am going to also go do a Factory Reset and have it set it all back up Yay what fun I shall have

[GaryOkie]

i immediately changed the night vision setting back to 'auto' out of fear i might brick the doorbell.

THIS IS NOT OKAY! The device should not be this susceptible to bricking. I should also be able to give it a static IP as with the other Cameras.

Also if I disable the prompt when am I going to know when the fix for broadcasting to my neighborhood that the device is "SUCCESSFULLY CONNECTED TO NETWORK"

I know the AD110 is susceptible to getting live video halted or even bricked when using other software than SmartHome to configure it. I have never heard of it being hosed when using SmartHome app to change settings, so I think this is nothing to fear.

For most routers, it is not difficult to define a static IP matched to the AD110 mac address (preferably an address outside the DHCP address pool). So even a DHCP-only device will always get the same IP.

I don't ever get that "successfully connected to network" repeated shout out, except on the initial setup. But doesn't that indicate a weak power source or a weak WiFi signal and dropping out if it constantly repeats? Why else would it be reconnecting, assuming your home WiFi network is otherwise fine?

For now, I am ignoring this x509 firmware update and waiting on it to be fixed. But good question, how will we know when it is read to install? For that - I am hoping the OP of this firmware announcement (@amcrest168 will notify us on this forum.

[xaikar]

There are only a few reasons that the camera would keep going on about connection to your network

1 Wifi to camera not good enough to keep it connected or router glitching (Reboot Router)
2 Power to Camera is not good enough... This might be caused by a Failing Transformer or bad wiring... This could be also a bad connection in the wiring...

There is a lot that is going on with these cameras. It could be that the camera is bad? It could be that the Caps they have in the system as Super caps are not good and don't store enough power to keep the camera running...

If you want to test if your camera has Bad capacitors (Caps) and this might not work if your system had bad wiring... So you take your camera and remove it from power right after it makes the message that it has connected to network and it should take any where form 40 seconds to over a minute for the Blue lights to turn off.. Infact if you press the button it should have enough power to send you the alert and even make a connection between the phone and camera for a few seconds before full power loss... If it goes out in less then 20 seconds and not even able to push button to send to your smart home app then there is a Cap issue and should seek a RMA...

I will go test mine again and see how long it takes to shut down after power is removed from the system... I am also going to meter the power needed to charge it back up to the point that the camera restores connection.. I do know that under static use the Power use is really low.. So a 30va transformer for most home doorbell systems should be more then enough unless they have large doorbell chimes that require that much then go with a 45va...

Will report back after I do my testing.. I am going to need some time because I am going to also go do a Factory Reset and have it set it all back up Yay what fun I shall have

Update time yay working from home...

After Checking all the Voltages I get 17.5 at the transformer and 17.1-.5 at the door bell.

I unplugged it and rang the doorbell a few times in my hand and that worked before it powered off

Factory reset it did the firmware update and its still griping about needing another update. I also checked the 2.4 WiFi and it goes all the way across the street.

https://imgur.com/a/rKfIFZD
https://imgur.com/a/7QNpljW

[Revo2Maxx]

OK so I did the update as well and I too keep getting the FW update info telling me to update the FW... That is kind of a pain but the good news is there is a little toggle that you can click to not be told again.. I have not clicked it because I don't know if that mean forever or just for this Version so I will leave it to where I just ignore for now...From what I can see as said somewhere before only difference is the V before the FW number so I did forward this info to Amcrest maybe they can take the V out so it don't look like it is a new UPDATE over the one just updated...

SO about how much power I did a test and it draws between 300ma and 400ma from a dead camera to load the Caps.. So anyone that is using a undersized transformer can get it to work... Just might not work well with a Doorbell as most say 10va for just the chime part...

So that is why a 10va can work at times because the start and running is less then this under day use... Again with a Doorbell installed with the camera a 10va wouldn't work much past first doorbell press...

About going on and off that is a wifi issue, wiring issue or transformer issue and sadly it could be a Camera issue but without testing with a Meter there is no way to know for sure...

[xaikar]

i immediately changed the night vision setting back to 'auto' out of fear i might brick the doorbell.

THIS IS NOT OKAY! The device should not be this susceptible to bricking. I should also be able to give it a static IP as with the other Cameras.

Also if I disable the prompt when am I going to know when the fix for broadcasting to my neighborhood that the device is "SUCCESSFULLY CONNECTED TO NETWORK"

For most routers, it is not difficult to define a static IP matched to the AD110 mac address (preferably an address outside the DHCP address pool). So even a DHCP-only device will always get the same IP.

I don't ever get that "successfully connected to network" repeated shout out, except on the initial setup. But doesn't that indicate a weak WiFi signal and dropping out if it constantly repeats? Why else would it be reconnecting, assuming your home WiFi network is otherwise fine?

I could totally set the Static IP from my Ubiquity Switch, but I am lazy and want it on the device interface...

As far as the losing the WiFi signal. Its literally 20-30 feet from it. Its also one of the only devices connected to the 2.4 GHZ frequency. Its dropping when its trying to Cycle IR mode on and off.

EDIT: I do have 2 APS I turned off the 2.4 on the one further away just in case its trying to connect to that one... Which it shouldn't but you know how technology is

[amcrest168]

I should also be able to give it a static IP as with the other Cameras.

i usually use the router's dhcp reservation when i need to assign a specific ip address to a device.

[GaryOkie]

...Its dropping when its trying to Cycle IR mode on and off.

Oh, ok - I forgot about this issue. Since my porch lights come on automatically and are quite bright, I prefer to leave night vision/IR off. So I never encountered this problem.

EDIT: but then again, is this a problem for everyone with nightvision enabled? Or just those that may have "borderline" power supplies? So it works fine during day, but IR requires a bit more juice and - oh oh.

Sorry that I haven't gone back and looked at all the posts about this issue, it's just one that hasn't impacted me.

[xaikar]

I should also be able to give it a static IP as with the other Cameras.

i usually use the router's dhcp reservation when i need to assign a specific ip address to a device.

That is just me being lazy beside the point. I did just spend a ton of time resetting and measuring voltages and providing screenshots an info. I am open to ideas. Also the device doesn't say jack about the network until 8PM when it starts getting dark and the IR tries to kick in.

[xaikar]

...Its dropping when its trying to Cycle IR mode on and off.

Oh, ok - I forgot about this issue. Since my porch lights come on automatically and are quite bright, I prefer to leave night vision/IR off. So I never encountered this problem.

I live on a dead end and I like having my porch light of plus I save like what $2 a month by not having that light on lol! But that seems to be the issue. I feel if I could set the IR to be on from 8PM to 6AM it would solve my problems.