AD110 Video Doorbell - Chime Kit or Chime Problem?

[chipleak]

The doorbell is not lit - the wiring is buried as I said under layers of trim and new siding. Also, the interior are PLASTER wall (1952) not drywall and buried wiring. The wiring in the PHOTO shows all the WHITE WIRES coupled and then ALL of the BLACK WIRES (I color-coded them myself red, yellow, blue to test 9 different wiring combinations on the doorbell with a FRONT and BACK buzzer.) For every different BLACK wire combination - there is NO change to the SOUND of the FRONT or BACK doorbell. But, with the wiring "AS IS" and chime and buzzers - all work and have worked for 52 years! I will make ONE more attempt to SWITCH "FRONT" and "BACK" wiring and see if that has any effect. COULD THE AD110 "reset" possibly have failed? WHEN there is power - as SEEN IN the VIDEO - the AD110 is LIT but does not work - no chime, cannot connect to the SmartHome Amcrest APP on the phone. Thanks for all your help! Chip

[Revo2Maxx]

Sorry I understand about old house and covered in and out... SO to make thins simple I would take things like the doorbell, and camera to the Transformer area... Connect it as it should be in a Small Test Connection circuit and see if things can get going...

Sadly I am not there and I can only give ideas of what I would do in this case... First I would remove all power to anything beside the Chime Kit and the camera power it up and see if after a minute you get prompted to set up the camera.. Once that would work then I would move to setting up and testing that the unit works with the Door Chime that you have on your home... Sadly if the Camera didn't work when connecting that up then no need to go any more with testing... Just remember as I said before in this or other threads. 16vac 30VA min or if using 24vac then needs to be 45va min...

To understand FIRST I WOULD take camera to the Doorbell Transformer area with the CHIME KIT that came with it, I would Remove power from the Transformer, I would disconnect all the wires on the output of the Transformer as it is right now, and Connect the Chime KIT to the 2 wire lugs on the Transformer. 1 Wire from side 1 to the lug on back of camera and then take next one that would normally be connected to your Doorbell in the house but this time connect it to second lug on the camera. Turn on power to the Transformer and wait a MIN... IF it i Talks and the Ring lights I would try and setup to your wifi if it is in range at that spot just so that is done... Then If that completed I would then Remove the Doorbell from your home.. Take it to your Area of setup testing, Remove power to transformer, Remove wire form left side of camera and put on Trans of the doorbell, Then take F of doorbell and run a wire to the Doorbell camera. ONce all the connections are made... Turn power back on to system and wait for Prompt... If it tested out working like that and says it has Connected then Press the Doorbell button and see if the unit makes your Chime Ring...

2 things to note... The mounting plate is Metal and mounting holes for wiring is close to each other one needs to make sure they are not touching either the plate or each other
Second the Wago or Waga clip is only for 1 pair of wires if you are not sure how to use them and don't have a second one just forget it is in the box...

I am not saying you have done anything that you have used 1 clip for 4 wires I am not saying that your wires are touching I am not saying that anything in this write up is meaning anything other then COVERING all BASES trying to make this as easy as I can... These are things I would look over myself and with that I will make sure I mention it as such...

If you choose not to do any of this testing that is up to you.. I just can give the Path and light the way I can not force someone to use it.

[chipleak]

I will do the FRONT - REAR switch test this weekend. I will switch FRONT and BACK wiring PLUS Chime Kit and all other variables to see if a different combination will work. Thanks for the help and that you continue to monitor this thread.

[amcrest168]

hi @chipleak, when you removed the yellow wiring, the doorbell completely lost power hence this suggests there is a wiring issue. to isolate the front circuit, you only need two wires to power the front doorbell so you can connect the chime kit to the two wire in parallel. the back circuit is simply a third wire for the back doorbell to ring the chime. good luck testing this weekend.

[chipleak]

GOT IT! Working 100% FINALLY! Front and Rear doorbell wires crossed PLUS a short behind the mounting plate for the AD110. When I installed the CHIME KIT on the BACK DOOR bell wiring and fixed the short circuit with the mounting plate - the CAMERA POWERED UP and configured on the Amcrest Smart Home App. FINAL QUESTION - do they have a time frame when ALL Amcrest Cams will run on one APP? I bought a new Amcrest ProHD 1080P WiFi Camera 2MP (1920TVL) Indoor Pan/Tilt Security Wireless IP Camera IP2M-841B (Black) in December but can only run that cam on Amcrest View Pro with my other 2 outdoor cams. I wish they could all be on one APP!

[Revo2Maxx]

Well sadly the doorbell while it will run on ASP (Amcrest Surveillance Pro) and will work with NVR/DVR and some other programs on your computer but in one phone app because the AD110 is a Smarthome Product I am sure it will stay with the Smarthome app...

I thought it was the Wago was used for both pairs as I know someone that did that... or a Short on the Plate as I know someone that did that as well so that is why I wrote it in my write up.. .Infact I also had an issue with a Short because of the plate. Mine was caused by flex of the plate do to my Dutch Lap siding...

I am glad you got it working... Congrats and hope it works out well for you...