chime kit wiring

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Archimedes
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Archimedes »

Revo2Maxx wrote: Thu Mar 18, 2021 2:47 pm So I am not sure what your talking about.. Chime Kit while connected to a Doorbell camera

First to be Clear! Your Transformer is a 18vac 27va? so a 27Watt Transformer? (Translates into 1.5 amps)
However if it is 27vac as you said that it over the power rating for the Chime KIT and I am sure the camera will be ok as long as it didn't go over 30vac.. I hope your saying that the Transformer is truly a 18vac 27va..

Second, one of the things that used to happen when people changed up and started to move into a Lite Doorbell switch is there could be on some not all transformer however some of them would cause a slight hum and then when the doorbell is pushed it could cause the hum to get even louder.. At times that had to do with the doorbell being used in truth...

So here is the Theory.. When a Doorbell is connected normally (without a Doorbell camera) there is no connection of power between the Transformer and doorbell until the Button is pushed.. When that is done that AC voltage is now able to make a Connection just like your turning on a Light Switch turns on a light (doorbell is only on as long as your button is pushed) However what it powers is not much more normally then a Coil of wire around a tube spring and a rod when power is applied it pushes the rod or pulls the rod depending on system and spring helps make the sound when the button is released... So you Push button that rod is pulled into the tube, compressing the spring when button is released that power is removed that that rod is released and that rod then goes up and hits a note bar..
However most times if that button is pushed to long in a since all the power is used in the Doorbell and then the transformer can start to HUM because in a since it is now causing a short same thing that happens if you were to use the dOorbell camera without a Chime KIt the Transformer would Hum when Button is pressed... However the Chime KIT is like a Suppresser and absorbs the voltage and current and shouldn't make the transformer hum
Hoping you can explain as I'm a little confused about how the chime kit makes the indoor chime work. Does it somehow link (wirelessly) back to the Doorbell to know when to un-supress the voltage and make the indoor chime activate?
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Revo2Maxx »

The indoor chime is a normal doorbell that at one time would have a normally open switch in place that when someone presses the button normally open switch, closes and becomes a complete path for the voltage to flow to your indoor chime.

The Chime kit you put on the indoor chime that passes the voltage to make the camera get constant voltage. Then to make the camera work with an indoor chime it would be setup in the app and depending on what type you use or how long you setup if digital the Chime Kit has a digital relay that notices the doorbell camera is in Chime Ring Mode (Short Circuit) and the chime kit absorbs that and protects the power supply while at the same time that causes your indoor chime to ring.

The Chime kit has no Wireless access and is dependent on the Doorbell setup for it to work.

If an issue with someone that has connected the camera to the doorbell button 2 wires outside and connected the Chime kit to Front and Trans Terminals of the inside doorbell. If button is pressed and it don't ring, it could be that the Camera has not been setup to work with indoor bell yet. By making that change in the doobell app it will be able to ring. However make a Note, If you don't have it connected to a indoor chime and you try to turn on the indoor bell in the app the doorbell will be shorted and no longer function.
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Ray308
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Ray308 »

I have a strange problem with the chime kit on my setup.

My setup is exactly like the first post on the left side (with the crosses in it) including the chime in the picture.
When the chime kit isn't connected, I hear a hum on the chime (not the transformer) but when I push the button on the AD410 it rings.
But when I connect the chime kit, the humming stops, but the chime doesn't work.

My transformer is a 8 - 12 -24 one, so it's on 24. I understand by reading this post, that could be the problem? (blown my chime kit?)

this is my transformer;
Scherm­afbeelding 2023-01-15 om 18.12.34.png
Scherm­afbeelding 2023-01-15 om 18.12.34.png (566.43 KiB) Viewed 1087 times
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Revo2Maxx »

So this is Old text from a time that things were not so Clear about the Doorbell.

Personally you might want to make another thread because the info in the first pages are not very clear or understandable. Time of writing this was I believe for the Ad110 for one. Your asking about AD410 that came a good time after the AD410..

I personally don't know this Doorbell and have not had any luck to buy one to find out what and why or how it should work with this doorbell. 1 Do think that one of the issues is or can be that 24 vac is over voltage to this doorbell as it looks like it says it should be 8-16v and while it could work 24 normally with just a simple press of the button it might really be a bad thing if it was someone that might go up and hold the button as it would more then likely get enough of the over voltage to be an issue.

Main issue is. Your doorbell has 2 areas where the transformer connects and normally that isn't how the systems work. Normally there is 1 wire that goes to the T and the other wire that is going to the Button at the front door has the second wire from the transformer. then the second wire form switch going to the F on the doorbell. Then when the button is pressed it Completes the connection for the doorbell to make it's sound. So then the question is where to put the Chime Kit? Well normally it would be at T3 and Of. is what I would guess. However that would be what is X in the first picture really and is why this Doorbell is confusing. It makes me wonder what is going on in the doorbell itself. Is there leakage voltage at the OF terminal or is 1 and OF just causing the latch?

To be honest, I think the Picture where it is X out I think that is how it should be wired for the Doorbell Camera. Making that is easy. Connect the 2 wires that are going to 1 together using a Wire Nut or Waga Lever connector Without connecting to (1), and connect the Chime kit to OF and T3. I would double check the Voltage on the Doorbell because it looks like 24 is to much and needs to be 8-16v
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Revo2Maxx »

It might be like one of my Transformers that it does have 16vac by connecting to 8 and 24 as it causes the Voltage between. In that case then your fine as long as your using the 16vac lugs on the transformer.
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Ray308
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Ray308 »

Hi @Revo2Maxx thanks for your reply, I'll make a topic of my own the next time, Your suggestion to connect the wires from 1 without connecting it to 1 and connect the chime kit to OF and T3 is how it is connected this moment, That is the layout on the left (with the X)
I'll check the Voltage on the doorbell today and let you know.
Ray308
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Ray308 »

I connected it as you adviced, no sound and no humming from the doorbell. When I connect the chime kit to the T and the other end of the chime kit to the cable that normally goes to the T the doorbell works but it still is humming.
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Revo2Maxx »

I am not sure. Again it isn't like the systems in the USA. It should work with the OF and T3 connected. My guess is that the system is over voltage and or the system might not have some diodes in it that would stop that drive between phases. So it might be picking up some of the over shoot voltage form the system. Hard to explain. Did you double check that your working with 16vac and that your not over driving the system?

It might be that you will need to use a Relay in your setup for it to work without the Hum. I would buy a POETR JQX13F (LY2) with the din base. Personally I would get that one without the LED in the relay. It works better for the lower 16v. There are others that won't work that have the LEds because really they are 24vac relays the one I mentioned has lower working voltage ability. Using a Bench Power Supply I can get it to click (Not active) at 14vac to really make it work the voltage needed to be 15.45vac. Where the others that I tested I couldn't get them to even make the non working click until after 21vac or between 20vac and 21 depending on the relays used.

So if you happen to not find the right relay and say it would need more voltage what happens or can happen is that the Click voltage is to high to make the contact latch and it will or can just rapid click as it is trying to power up to latch voltage.
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Ray308
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Ray308 »

Hi @Revo2Maxx I noticed that you didn't get your hands on a chime I'm talking about. I do have a older one laying around, without lid, but functional. I could send it to you, so you can test the thing. It's doing nothing here. So if your interested?
IMG_0372.jpeg
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: chime kit wiring

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Thanks for the offer, In truth being on the other side of the world would be cost Prohibitive on most cases. If it was in the Main Land area I would say sure.

I do have some doorbells Chimes. I just mean I don't have the one that is listed in this thread and have been looking to get my hands on something like that. Even to wire up the system in the way it would be wired in the UK seeing I have an open 220v circuit in my Garage. Just not something I have found or got around to doing yet. I have worked in a few different things that maybe needed for others that are using 8v chimes rather then a 16 or 24v.. That I will be also adding to my Mock up.

For me it is just hard at times to try and offer advice on how to do something, when how I do it here just seems so easy and different in the way things work in other parts of the world.

The great thing about these doorbells is there are many options in ways to be able to connect them up. Just not always easy to make things work in all areas of the world.
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