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IP4M-1053EW - Not able to connect to Camera
Re: IP4M-1053EW - Not able to connect to Camera
Cheap but nice working meter on top bottom 2 sets are my normal working probes one on the right are needle sharp that I replace every other year or so. These I have only had 5 months been sick good chunk of that time so may have 20 hrs use so far.
Be Safe.
Re: IP4M-1053EW - Not able to connect to Camera
I know this is a really old thread, but my IP4M-1053EW finally died on me for real. For about a year now, I've been able to limp it back up to boot and onto the network and it would function normally until a power outage and the battery backup supporting my PoE equipment was depleted.
After the first power event, I noticed the camera didn't come back on, but it kept trying to cycle. Turn PoE light on, initialize, off for a second then back on with network connection briefly and repeat. I tried cycling it myself to low luck and gave up on getting it online so I just left it connected. This was mid winter around 30 degrees. The next day it was about 50 degrees, and low and behold, I see the camera's picture on my NVR great. Good for about 6 months, and the same thing happens, however, now it requires more power to boot. I would monitor it's power usage and it would pull about 5W on the initialization and then jump up to 13W up to about 20W if the IR LEDs came on at night.
Well, two days ago at 9PM, it just shuts off, clean picture right to the end. Now, the past two weeks we were in the teens and it was functioning just fine, it was about 27 degrees at 9PM when it died the other day. It hasn't gone above 34 degrees since the shut down, so I don't know if the temp resolution is going to work this time.
All I know is now, when I plug it in, it sits pulling 0.61W and never tries to cycle or do anything. I've tried to cycle the PoE power several times, and maybe 2 or 3 times it pulled 7W like a normal initialization, but I guess and the cycle to boot network, it stopped pulling power. On one attempt it even pulled 22W right off the bat. If I sit there cycling PoE power every 15-20th attempt, it'll pull 7W, but never jump to start and pull the start 13W.
Now the camera is probably 30 ft in the air at the very crest of my roof, I would have already brought it in to warm it up and see if it would boot, but with 3-5 inches of snow forecasted tonight, it might be a while until I get the extension ladder up there. It looks like I'll be upgrading to the IP8M since I don't want to change the mount as when I sided the house, I specifically put a mounting plate and siding around it for that specific mount.
I'm a Computer Engineer and my father was an Electrical engineer and I've repair many things, and the most common thing I've seen in situations like this is when the caps exploded, replace all the domed caps, and everything comes back to life, TV's, cameras, etc. I'm just dying to get my hands on any kind of technical data on this unit before I go spending $630 on the new version.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. EDIT: just ran another bunch of PoE power cycles and it pulled 15W off the start, did its usual boot time and is now back to pulling 0.49W. Got lucky on back to back cycles and it pulled 7W as would be normal, but after its start routine and PoE cycle came back at 0.39W.
After the first power event, I noticed the camera didn't come back on, but it kept trying to cycle. Turn PoE light on, initialize, off for a second then back on with network connection briefly and repeat. I tried cycling it myself to low luck and gave up on getting it online so I just left it connected. This was mid winter around 30 degrees. The next day it was about 50 degrees, and low and behold, I see the camera's picture on my NVR great. Good for about 6 months, and the same thing happens, however, now it requires more power to boot. I would monitor it's power usage and it would pull about 5W on the initialization and then jump up to 13W up to about 20W if the IR LEDs came on at night.
Well, two days ago at 9PM, it just shuts off, clean picture right to the end. Now, the past two weeks we were in the teens and it was functioning just fine, it was about 27 degrees at 9PM when it died the other day. It hasn't gone above 34 degrees since the shut down, so I don't know if the temp resolution is going to work this time.
All I know is now, when I plug it in, it sits pulling 0.61W and never tries to cycle or do anything. I've tried to cycle the PoE power several times, and maybe 2 or 3 times it pulled 7W like a normal initialization, but I guess and the cycle to boot network, it stopped pulling power. On one attempt it even pulled 22W right off the bat. If I sit there cycling PoE power every 15-20th attempt, it'll pull 7W, but never jump to start and pull the start 13W.
Now the camera is probably 30 ft in the air at the very crest of my roof, I would have already brought it in to warm it up and see if it would boot, but with 3-5 inches of snow forecasted tonight, it might be a while until I get the extension ladder up there. It looks like I'll be upgrading to the IP8M since I don't want to change the mount as when I sided the house, I specifically put a mounting plate and siding around it for that specific mount.
I'm a Computer Engineer and my father was an Electrical engineer and I've repair many things, and the most common thing I've seen in situations like this is when the caps exploded, replace all the domed caps, and everything comes back to life, TV's, cameras, etc. I'm just dying to get my hands on any kind of technical data on this unit before I go spending $630 on the new version.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. EDIT: just ran another bunch of PoE power cycles and it pulled 15W off the start, did its usual boot time and is now back to pulling 0.49W. Got lucky on back to back cycles and it pulled 7W as would be normal, but after its start routine and PoE cycle came back at 0.39W.
Re: IP4M-1053EW - Not able to connect to Camera
So there are many different things that can be wrong and no one fault seems to be the same all the time with these with your type of symptoms.. Then the issue is when making repairs like this for me anyway almost always requires Freeze spray and time..
First to mind is Cold Joint or trace cracks. These are the easier of the bunch to find normally and at times without the use of freeze spray.
Another issue it might be related to Oscillator drift for failure. Not always my second check but one I have ran into in the past.
Then the issue you already covered an ESR issue with CAPs.. Normally this testing is done while going over the PCB and can help with freeze spray.
Another issue and seeing it is a PTZ it can happen over time and that is connector issues RJ45, and all the ones on the PCB need to be examined and using some CRC QD as it is safe for plastic parts and I like to spray and let set a little then place the connections back to the PCB.. Now the hardest part is going to be after you do all the inner PCB and that is taking the Camera module out and removing it from the cage to make sure the error isn't inside the camera. Normally this step is after I do a Freezer test.. Not everyone has a freezer set aside for things like this but I do in my Garage lol.. After i do all things in the cameras main body I will put the camera back together and set the camera in the freezer for 4 to 6 hours and confirm that the camera is working in cold still after all housing repairs are done. If at this point the camera fails again I will move to the removel of the Module from the head and take it apart and test all things inside that as well. Just keep in mind that there are some very fine wires on the connectors going from main board to the camera module. The one on the side with 3 black wires in a 5 or 7 pin connector can be a pain to get out.. IT is not easy to know where they go and seeing all black if that connector is broke will have to get some detail from someone with a camera that can tell you where each wire goes seeing the 3 wires go to main PCB into a multi wire connector so not so easy of that connector breaks. Normally they are not glued in just very tight fit. Almost like the wrong connector for harness that plugs in it.. Out of the 10 or so I have repaired I will admit i did break it once and lucky for me had other cameras that I could get the pin out correct for the new connector..
First to mind is Cold Joint or trace cracks. These are the easier of the bunch to find normally and at times without the use of freeze spray.
Another issue it might be related to Oscillator drift for failure. Not always my second check but one I have ran into in the past.
Then the issue you already covered an ESR issue with CAPs.. Normally this testing is done while going over the PCB and can help with freeze spray.
Another issue and seeing it is a PTZ it can happen over time and that is connector issues RJ45, and all the ones on the PCB need to be examined and using some CRC QD as it is safe for plastic parts and I like to spray and let set a little then place the connections back to the PCB.. Now the hardest part is going to be after you do all the inner PCB and that is taking the Camera module out and removing it from the cage to make sure the error isn't inside the camera. Normally this step is after I do a Freezer test.. Not everyone has a freezer set aside for things like this but I do in my Garage lol.. After i do all things in the cameras main body I will put the camera back together and set the camera in the freezer for 4 to 6 hours and confirm that the camera is working in cold still after all housing repairs are done. If at this point the camera fails again I will move to the removel of the Module from the head and take it apart and test all things inside that as well. Just keep in mind that there are some very fine wires on the connectors going from main board to the camera module. The one on the side with 3 black wires in a 5 or 7 pin connector can be a pain to get out.. IT is not easy to know where they go and seeing all black if that connector is broke will have to get some detail from someone with a camera that can tell you where each wire goes seeing the 3 wires go to main PCB into a multi wire connector so not so easy of that connector breaks. Normally they are not glued in just very tight fit. Almost like the wrong connector for harness that plugs in it.. Out of the 10 or so I have repaired I will admit i did break it once and lucky for me had other cameras that I could get the pin out correct for the new connector..
Be Safe.