AD110 w/24VAC transformer

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Ripper3785
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AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Ripper3785 »

Strangely my new build home has a 20VAC transformer that is outputting more like 23.6VAC. Hooked up the chime kit and doorbell started ringing continuously. Found other reports here that this kills the chime kit. Only had it connected for a minute, hopefully didn't kill mine. So not sure what to do now, find another transformer? Really don't want to change the box in the wall, it's some kind of 2 sided thing with a divider, not sure if they're some kind of standard?
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Hello and Welcome to the Forum.

Normally houses in USA anyway have 16vac doorbells. Not heard of a 20vac one not saying there isn't some odd system out there. I would double check your chime to make sure 16vac is what is needed. Your installer might have tried to fix a voltage drop issue by using a higher volt transformer.

About the chime kit? It might be dead if your button was pressed while setup for indoor chime if your transformer went low voltage high current. Make sure if it is dead that you let support know what model you have. The AD410 chime kit might kill your camera.

16vac 30va is what should be used.
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Ripper3785
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Ripper3785 »

The transformer specifically says output 20VAC 350ma and I measured 23.6v with the meter(while button NOT pressed). It is a Nicor PRCP2

Again, looking for ideas here, preferably not replacing doorbell transformer to use the ad110.
Ripper3785
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Ripper3785 »

Tried to attach a photo but it keeps redirecting me to login again. Assume because I am new.

The wires running between it and the doorbell are tiny, possible smaller than 20ga. If there is some way I can use a resistor or two to get things into a workable state? I already had to solder the chime kit wiring to the transformer wiring as both wires would not fit into the same plug style connection point on the transformer.

Yes I now realize this doorbell/transformer is not on the compatible list. I figured I was good since the tech sheet for the AD110 shows '16~24V AC'.
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Yeah there is just so much and so many different things.

When it comes to 1 type of system that uses things that are not standard is one of the worse things that people can do when it comes to building a house. I mean yeah maybe the system that is installed works on the small wire and because of the people that might move into the place would buy a brand that is supported by the device as I know Ring is and a few others. However most of them are Stand alone with their apps and or Cloud where the Amcrest doorbell has many options that are not on other brands so requires higher standard.

So having the Ringing issue mostly was caused by Chime type or bad Chime Kit. There is just to many different things that can happen when it isn't standard.

IT very well could be that there is a connection issue with the Chime Kit to your setup or Bell wire is to small and or to small for how long it is and so many different things. However not sure that is it seeing from what I think I know of the System you have it is like a all in 1 unit with only wires running to door switch. Normally with just a switch it is not something that would need to be large because only time current is going though it is when the button is pressed. The length of time is so short that some people just don't care about standard or think about future owners..

Normally a Bell has a Terminal for T and one for F where the Chime kit connects to one of each of the screws. Not sure about soldering things to wiring it might be they are not the right set of wires.. Again so many things it could be hard to know without seeing...
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Ripper3785
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Ripper3785 »

I appreciate you taking the time to reply despite not sending me in a particular direction. You are correct that it is an all in 1 unit with just the 120v incoming wires and 2 wires going out to the doorbell. The thin wire I was talking about is, after further inspection, CAT5 using just one pair. The doorbell is a basic round button, lighted. I'm reading some posts that the chime kit helps reduce some power fluctuations? Do you think it's a 100% bad idea to hook up the camera without the chime kit? I may try that, or soldering in a resistor or two and see if that changes constant ring condition and then connecting the camera. If nobody knows any better, then maybe I can experiment and provide data to others. Just wish I had a bit more recent experience in electronics(20+ yrs ago in high school)
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Ok so to be honest 24awg wire while other claim they have used it and at over 100' on a AD110 not sure how seeing that would be at over 40% voltage drop..

However in your case 24awg on just 30 ft, is only 12% voltage drop.. However that isn't really what worries me. With a normal Doorbell button there is no current flowing in the cables until the button is pressed. When you remove said button and now connect the doorbell camera there will be a Constant Current flowing down said cables.. Over time that will burn out the cable or cause damage to the camera..

About not using the Chime Kit!? Not a good idea. While I don't know the Doorbell that you own more then what I have seen on paper. I would guess that it is Digital in nature and as such there would be no voltage passing to the camera if the Chime Kit isn't used.. The Chime kit is a Bypass for your doorbell camera to have full time voltage at a point where normally there would be no voltage..

Think about how the system normally works. T and F are on the normal doorbell, When wired to a switch F gets Energized and makes the doorbell ring. This is because T is 1 wire from the Transformer and F is the second wire from the Transformer with a Break (From a Switch) When there is a lit switch it works because the system it is connected to allows very low current high resistance and causes the bulb to lit, However when the button is pressed it changes and bulb goes out and current passes the switch to cause the doorbell to ring. (That is because if when the button is pressed and you were to read voltage at the switch it at the time should read 0 Voltage because it is passing voltage to the Chime)

Adding a Resistor isn't going to help, All that is going to do is change the Voltage that is going down the wire and that change will be exchanged in heat and will want a very high W low ohm rated resistor if one was to be used on a system that needs one.. They would have a Heatsink to help keep it cool..

I would guess that the reason your doorbell is ringing when you have the Amcrest camera connected is because the resistance tolerance is very low and is picking up the voltage that is being carried though the Chime Kit to power the Doorbell camera.

Normally the Doorbell is as stated before with a T and a F or B/R for back door connection. The Chime Kit connection is on the T and F at the Doorbell Chime, and the camera is connected to the 2 wires that are at the switch area. Normally that is all that is needed to make this work. I personally don't know how you have your system connected seeing you said you had to Solder in your Chime Kit wires?
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Ripper3785
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Ripper3785 »

So, against some(most?) of your advice, I hooked up the camera without the chime kit, resistors, or anything else. Camera works great... I enabled the link digital chime and to my surprise, this worked too. So I can't explain why all of this works in this configuration, and it might not be recommended by amcrest and/or others, but it is currently working for me. I will certainly report back should something fail as a result of my disregard of advice.
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: AD110 w/24VAC transformer

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Interesting. Sounds like maybe the company should have expanded on its circuit as most doorbells wouldn't pass the volt or enough current to power a doorbell camera. Guess with the idea of this working with other cameras they built in the parts needed and such might have caused the feedback. Guess I should find one to look at inside.
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