853 PTZ does dance but don't work some Info

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Revo2Maxx
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853 PTZ does dance but don't work some Info

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Ok so there are a few things that I wanted to touch on..

When it comes to the 850 and others like that be it the better 853, 858, 1053, 1063, 863, and others as such there are a good few things that can go wrong.. For many of not all of them this will be best way to know for sure what is going on..

First not all issues will be a Dead camera and not all of the issues will be a working camera but here are some of the things I know for sure..

Camera will do the dance even with a dead Camera Module. (Even without one installed) What does this mean. Well it comes down to a couple of things. First one is going to be something only the person that did it will know. If the camera was not able to complete a Firmware update then the camera will be dead and will always do the dance.. Second one is there is some type of damage to the camera module and my guess that might be related to the network transformer or the Realtek Network device on the Module (Might be the Buck regulator for the circuit) however this will be something that will have to be tested and found out..

Now what is another thing that could happen? Well the Iris could be bad and cause the camera to go offline with a Black screen. You will know this is the case because you will have access to the camera by going to the Cameras WebUI. If you have a Camera name in the camera it will show on Screen, Any Overlays you have in the screen like Temp zoom Position will still show on the screen and if connected to a POE NVR port or any recorder you will still have the ability to control the camera pan tilt only issue is there is no picture displayed.

So I am going to point out a few parts of the 853 Module. This is going to be almost the same as all other PTZ's that are above. While the 850 is not 100% the same lay out as the others it will be really close with same ideas.. First picture below will be for what the complete 853 camera module looks like without the cage that holds the 2 parts together. The second picture is where the Iris and the IRC is located. You will know the difference between the 2 in most cases if you have ever had older cameras with attached lenses (Older Box cameras came without a Lens) Iris is normally a 4 pin wire that would attach to the side of the camera. On the 853 it is the one that has the motor attached with part of the ribbon cable The one with the 2 wires Blk/Yl is the IRC (Day/Night) filter.. 3rd picture is the bottom of the lens showing the 2 motors for zoom and focus.

Because I was not making a Video or a Tear Down sheet I didn't show the Repair of my 853 Iris however on the pictures below to remove the iris motor there is 1 screw and 4 solder points to the cable. Need to know how to make soldering connections well to work on these because it can be easy to destroy the cable and there is no disconnect from motors without De-soldering and then re soldering the new motor in place. Also I needed to remove the cable from the side of the lens and I also needed to take one of the lower motors out as well to give slack on the cable to lift the Iris out of the lens.

Now I wanted to mention from older cameras that I have owned and had some issues that could make someone think it was a Iris issue when it was really the Sensor issue and that is if there is nothing in the camera that was setup for System Check and Pass to keep going and start your camera, then your camera with a bad sensor might come online and not be an issue with Iris. One would want to Double check before buying the new Motor replacement that the Iris is bad. Best way is to Remove it and would cause it to work as if the Iris was in full open position. Your picture would return no longer able to be controlled but one would know that the sensor was still good and safe bet to get a replacement motor.. Now I don't want to say that your issue will also be bad motor it might be the iris it self. However most cases the iris is best to replace whole part with motor and iris..
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: 853 PTZ does dance but don't work some Info

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Also thought I would show another Lens from a different camera I have, This one is from a 10x bullet and why I thought I would show this one is while it was built kind of like the Amcrest camera this one don't have a Auto Iris and the motor where you can see that looks like would be an Auto Iris I found is infact a IRC just using a normal motor rather then the one that was on the Amcrest camera.. Where the Auto Iris is there is a Plug that covers the hole where one could be installed. You can tell there is none there because there is no wires or cable that goes to the area. Looking at the cable to the IRC you can see only 2 wires go up that to the motor and it is made in a way that it works for the IRC
HikNoIRC10x.jpg
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Re: 853 PTZ does dance but don't work some Info

Post by Revo2Maxx »

So I had someone ask how do you know if there is damage on the board or if there is something that might have been FW related.

Well I thought I would show a Picture of a 5mp camera that has Clear damage on the board. When I took the dome off the camera I could tell right away that there was going to be some type of damage on the board from the smell. I removed the 3 screws holding the IR on the camera body, I took out the wiring to the IR to remove mount from camera and with very little effort I could see the damage. Now not always will it have damage that can be seen. However I thought I would show this so people have an idea. Some times the damage could even be trace related. Worse part of a Repair is if the damage is on a Inner trace if the PCB has layers between the top and bottom. Some do and someone might not even know where the issue is without having a Schematic for the device for testing top to bottom tracks..

you can see the bad part in the Red Diamon area..
Damaged.jpg
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