I solved my doorbell chatter.
My old doorbell was a 16vac mechanical chime. When changing out the normally open button with the amcrest camera button my doorbell would chatter with or without the chime kit hooked up across the chime. My chime has the 3 screws (Front, Tran and Rear) and I was only using the Front and Tran (Common). The reason for the chattering is because the camera uses power and is not open like the old switch and the same current is going through the coils of the chime (some chimes may be more sensitive then others depending on coil and springs. My transformer in my attic has 3 taps (screws) to get different voltages (8v 10va, 16v 10va and 24v 20va). I decided to go with 24v to lower the current draw but still had same problem so got out my meter and found the camera pulls .35A then drops to .1A after it powers up. The my coils ohmed to about 7 ohms each and i was really getting 25.4vac. I have all different size 1% .25w resisters so I decided to use 2.74k resisters to not worry about them over heating. I ended up connecting 32 resisters in series and wire netting wires on both ends. Decided to go across Front and Back so both chimes go off at same time since I'm using 24v and I wanted more power to go across resisters. It did the trick for me. I have power wires, resister wires and chime kit wires connected across both coils (front and back). Hope this info helps someone.
Can anyone tell me what the chime kit dose? I originally thought it was something like that but I opened it up and it has a PCB with chips on it. Dose not seem to be doing anything for me so am very curious what exactly it is doing?
Video Doorbell CONSTANTLY chiming
Re: Video Doorbell CONSTANTLY chiming
Hello and Welcome to the Forum
I am not sure I even want to touch the Post as there is just way to much in there that is damaging for your system...
However I will say that your CHIME KIT is for the lack of a better idea an Electronic Current suppresser if you will. It is designed to take your 16vac Transformer and allow current to flow to the camera while keeping it from going to the doorbell until it notices the push of the button on the Doorbell. This push then not only causes the system to make a Short as it would normally with a Doorbell in theory.
One wire normally comes from the Transformer to the Switch, one wire goes from switch to the F terminal on a Doorbell. T on the doorbell goes to the other Terminal of the Transformer to complete the Circuit when the Switch button is pushed... So on the Camera it needs something that can take that current and voltage passing it to the Camera while Suppressing the doorbell tone under standby and does so with an Electronic Relay in the Chime KIT...
So when the Camera button is pushed you would hear a Click of a EMS (Electro Magnetic Switch) and depending on what your camera was setup with for doorbell type it can switch the terminals on the back from the open state to a closed state from 3 to 10 seconds... IN this 3 to 10 seconds that Camera is no longer getting any current to keep the camera running and is powered with 2 large Supper Capacitors that is in the camera (One reason it takes a while for it to start when power is first connected, because it has to Charge them up before power is provided to camera) Then once that time delay has expired the EMS opens and now the camera is taking voltage from the transformer and the Chime Kit is allowing that voltage and current to pass by the INDOOR DOORBELL.. However not sure why or how your system is working when your connected to a 24vac because most doorbells as you said yours was 16vac and I am going to guess was only a 10va type that don't need a lot of current to power the chime With that normally a 10ohm 25watt resistor could have taking out that very little current that would make the chime chatter and that is caused by how the AC voltage work. AC voltage goes back and forth between the 2 conductors. If you look at the picture this is making a 24vac off 2 12v outputs however what you need to understand in order for this to make the 24vac you have to take the 12v+ and the 12v- when they are put together that is what would make the 24vac just taking 12v+ and 12v+ sadly only would give you 12+ Where you see the wave rise and the other fall at 0 at that point it would be 12v to 0 would only be 12v however is when it is on the -12v and the +12v would give you 24v... The issue with your Chime is caused somewhere between and is just enough to leak past to cause the issue..
In your Chime KIT there would be a Bridge Rectifier, voltage regulator to power the little chip in the kit for the Chip Relay and then there would be some diodes, resistors and a type of Fuse on over current..
Sadly if your Transformer at 24vac was used on it own with the Chime kit that would cause the chip to overload and fry the components in the chime kit I am going to guess that with your Resistor cluster your able to Drop the voltage and current that is passing though that Chime kit and doing so has kept it from frying... No one selling them Chime Kits alone at this time that I know of and if it goes bad you will have to RMA your camera back to Amcrest and they can replace the whole system..
So 2 things most important when using these cameras. Right Transformer is #1 16vac 30va in size and second having a good Doorbell that will work with these and at times it is best to just replace the Doorbell rather then jump down rabbit holes that could damage the camera or have some other bad impact on your life... Distance and wire gauge is important if distance is needed..
I am not sure I even want to touch the Post as there is just way to much in there that is damaging for your system...
However I will say that your CHIME KIT is for the lack of a better idea an Electronic Current suppresser if you will. It is designed to take your 16vac Transformer and allow current to flow to the camera while keeping it from going to the doorbell until it notices the push of the button on the Doorbell. This push then not only causes the system to make a Short as it would normally with a Doorbell in theory.
One wire normally comes from the Transformer to the Switch, one wire goes from switch to the F terminal on a Doorbell. T on the doorbell goes to the other Terminal of the Transformer to complete the Circuit when the Switch button is pushed... So on the Camera it needs something that can take that current and voltage passing it to the Camera while Suppressing the doorbell tone under standby and does so with an Electronic Relay in the Chime KIT...
So when the Camera button is pushed you would hear a Click of a EMS (Electro Magnetic Switch) and depending on what your camera was setup with for doorbell type it can switch the terminals on the back from the open state to a closed state from 3 to 10 seconds... IN this 3 to 10 seconds that Camera is no longer getting any current to keep the camera running and is powered with 2 large Supper Capacitors that is in the camera (One reason it takes a while for it to start when power is first connected, because it has to Charge them up before power is provided to camera) Then once that time delay has expired the EMS opens and now the camera is taking voltage from the transformer and the Chime Kit is allowing that voltage and current to pass by the INDOOR DOORBELL.. However not sure why or how your system is working when your connected to a 24vac because most doorbells as you said yours was 16vac and I am going to guess was only a 10va type that don't need a lot of current to power the chime With that normally a 10ohm 25watt resistor could have taking out that very little current that would make the chime chatter and that is caused by how the AC voltage work. AC voltage goes back and forth between the 2 conductors. If you look at the picture this is making a 24vac off 2 12v outputs however what you need to understand in order for this to make the 24vac you have to take the 12v+ and the 12v- when they are put together that is what would make the 24vac just taking 12v+ and 12v+ sadly only would give you 12+ Where you see the wave rise and the other fall at 0 at that point it would be 12v to 0 would only be 12v however is when it is on the -12v and the +12v would give you 24v... The issue with your Chime is caused somewhere between and is just enough to leak past to cause the issue..
In your Chime KIT there would be a Bridge Rectifier, voltage regulator to power the little chip in the kit for the Chip Relay and then there would be some diodes, resistors and a type of Fuse on over current..
Sadly if your Transformer at 24vac was used on it own with the Chime kit that would cause the chip to overload and fry the components in the chime kit I am going to guess that with your Resistor cluster your able to Drop the voltage and current that is passing though that Chime kit and doing so has kept it from frying... No one selling them Chime Kits alone at this time that I know of and if it goes bad you will have to RMA your camera back to Amcrest and they can replace the whole system..
So 2 things most important when using these cameras. Right Transformer is #1 16vac 30va in size and second having a good Doorbell that will work with these and at times it is best to just replace the Doorbell rather then jump down rabbit holes that could damage the camera or have some other bad impact on your life... Distance and wire gauge is important if distance is needed..
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mystikalemotions
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