Chime Kit is dead - AD410

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AlexPower
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2021 4:29 am

Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by AlexPower »

It appears my Chime Kit that came with AD410 is dead. It was working for a few days after installation. I was wondering if @Revo2Maxx might help me or guide me in the right direction to maybe repair it. I can solder and use multimeter. I measured continuity between two pins on chime kit and it appears to be shorted.

Here's my set up.
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I guess transformer is not powerful enough to power both AD410 and mechanical bell. So bell never worked. If I connect AD410 without chime kit, it will power on but won't boot up. With chime kit connected AD410 will power on and boot up. Since chime kit died, I used AC from transformer + USB to boot it up. When AD410 booted up I disconnected USB. And that's how it runs atm.

Thanks in advance.
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by Revo2Maxx »

Hello and Welcome to the forum

So I am not sure why you think the Chime kit is dead unless your saying your Indoor Chime is dead!?

The only way that the Chime kit would die is if someone added a load that was over the Current rating of the fuse and or voltage rating of the device.. I have personally repair 9 of the Chime Boxes my self from use with 24vac transformers... IT can cause a Over Current issue and fry some SMD parts within the little white box..

For your setup you would need to run a Relay.. Don't let anyone tell you that it can't be done I have already setup 4 different cameras 2 rings and 2 Amcrest doorbell cameras with a Relay to give the camera 24vac and the doorbell like your 8vac...

So here is somethings to note.. Have you tried to run a 16vac or 24vac power supply this camera also works with 12vdc and 24vdc as well.. So you could just use a normal 12vdc power supply that loads of things work off of today.. Anyway until you get things setup the way you want with your indoor doorbell you could use 12v method, Reset the camera back to factory, remove the device from your app, add the device back and when you get to the add chime part just click on the Skip Button.. What happens is if you don't skip this part when the button is pushed it will cause a Short to your power supply.. Normally a Transformer won't mind that much but a Wall wort won't like it much.. If you Skip that part there is no function of short when button is pushed...
Try to Avoid CCA Networking Cables They are JUNK PERIOD!
Where there is Life there is Hope
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AlexPower
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Joined: Sat Sep 04, 2021 4:29 am

Re: Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by AlexPower »

Here's a few scenarios I tried. Voltage prior installation from transformer is 18-20vac
1. When I got AD410, I connected it per setup guide. During set up I chose mechanical bell (that's what I have). AD410 booted up normally. Chime bell wouldn't do 'ding-dong' when button pressed, but piston inside mechanical bell will move slightly as if there's not enough current. Voltage at ad410 terminals around 14-16vac.

2. I changed mechanical to digital bell in the app settings. It still didn't work.

3. I removed AD410 and touched two wires together as if I was pressing button at a door. With chime kit still attached to mechanical bell. There was a bit more movement from piston, but not enough to make a 'ding'.

4. I also tried to connect AD410 without chime kit. AD410 would only show blue ring and will never go to green. Also it makes a cracking sound time to time. So I know that AD410 won't boot up properly without chime kit, with my set up.

5. I tried again, with chime kit attached to mechanical bell, touch two wires at door. As per previous experience (see no. 3) mechanical bell didn't do 'ding-dong'. So I decided to just put back AD410 back and let it be without mechanical bell. But only AD410 won't boot up fully. Only blue ring and cracking sound every minute or so. Same behaviour as in no.4.

Weird thing is to make it work, I have to plug in, additionally to ac power, USB. I don't even have to plug other end to any source. After a minute blue ring will turn green. And AD410 will function as normally, but unfortunately only for some time, maybe a couple of hours, and then it will switch to blue ring (I presume it reboots) and I will have to do the whole 'USB' procedure again.

Also after no.5 I presumed chime kit is dead. I reseted AD410 and set it up, skipping chime bell set up (as you suggested above).

Unfortunately I don't have access to 16vac nor 24vac. In Ireland you can only buy 8vac 8va transformer for doorbells and that's it. For now I want to make AD410 work stable. I live in semi-detached apartment and my front door is down the stairs. There's no socket around front door or fuse box to try it with DC power. I would rather use existing transformer. I'm thinking to buy same transformer as I already have and put it in parallel with existing one to give more amps for AD410 as this what I think is the problem. I also want to find out if i fried chime kit (white little box).

Fuse (in yellow circle) inside chime kit appears to be fine. It gives me 0 in continuity mode on multimeter. I also measured what I think resistors (red circle) and they give me 0 as well. I don't think that's right.
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I hope my post makes sense.
AlexPower
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Re: Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by AlexPower »

Latest update: I totally by-passed mechanical bell by removing two wires on bell and just shorting them. AD410 successfully booted and in operational mode. I will see how it operates during the day.
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by Revo2Maxx »

So trying to find another F1 of the same Q1 I wasn't able to do.. However my guess is that if your Chime box is dead from trying to connect it to a 8vac power supply that might be the issue. Out of all the ones I fixed only one that was dead at the fuse was the one that tried to power it with a supply that was to small.. After replacing the Fuse and installing a system that met his needs the camera works well and so does his doorbell..

So here is what is needed. When you say that your Voltage for the 8vac transformer was 18-20v I am guessing this was while there was no load on it!? Then you mention at the terminals the Voltage was 14-16. SO then there is an issue 4 volt drop is kind of high however to be fair the Voltage is within spec for the camera to work.. This is where things get Hard for the camera and transformer and that is what is the Voltage after the button is pressed. In fact what is it from the Time it is pressed till about 30 seconds after and here is why.. Your Transformer is not a Regulated power and what can happen is when the Voltage Drops the Current gets higher and so a few things can and over time will happen. First if the wires are very small they will burn up and could be an issue, second if the voltage drops to low and current goes to high the camera could be damaged..

On your numbers I have done some trying to find out what and how and using 21awg wire that isn't a normal size wire but is something I have found common is some bell systems. There has to be 100 feet of cable for a 11% drop of voltage from 20v to 17.7v and that was with a current load of 900ma and is really the max current I have seen and only for a very short inrush current. So this means either you have very little sized wire or your transformer is really not able to provide the Volt values..

The thing is with a 16vac power supply the doorbell takes 1 to 2 minutes to start up from being offline (New Setup) with a 24vac it would take 45 second to 1 min to start up this depends on the Transformers ability to supply power (voltage with little current will take longer then same voltage and high current)

The Chime Kit is an Amcrest Chime Kit in your picture. The Main difference between Ad110 and the AD410 kits is R9 and R10 Resister value So older was 10Ohms and the new ones are 5.1Ohms outside of the that the rest is almost 100% the same

Please note that if your system can deal with the power that it gets at the day time you might want to turn off the Night IR because I am going to bet that it will cause a Draw that the transformer will not be able to provide and can damage the transformer and worse the camera it self..

Just remember that these transformers are very Raw AC power and the current ratting is at the Tested voltage OR is it? the issue is as the Voltage drops the Current rises. Take this for instance. I have a 30va 24vac transformer and that is only 1.25amp. However I can put a 12v 4.10amp load on the transformer and the transformer will drop the voltage to 14.xx volts at 4.16amps.. So what I am trying to say a transformer that is rated only 8vac but produces 18 to 20 and yet is also rated 8watts at 8vac that is 1amps of current. However if that was on paper and not measured then at the high voltage output that current might only be 110 or 150ma however as the voltage goes lower to the rated voltage then the current gets higher.

I am sure you know how but to test that the fuse is still good Q1 set your meter to Ohm or Beep setting on your meter and test if there is no connection it would just Stay OL if you have on Beep it would beep and on Ohm it should be as close to 000 as it can be meaning pressing your 2 probes together should give you the same results as touching both ends of the Q1 fuse..
Try to Avoid CCA Networking Cables They are JUNK PERIOD!
Where there is Life there is Hope
James
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Revo2Maxx
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Re: Chime Kit is dead - AD410

Post by Revo2Maxx »

So I was wrong it was almost 5amps but I did make a video last month never put it online.. I never tested the voltage in the Video however I did and the voltage was over 14.xxVAC I don't remember the total but was 10vac under what the transformers running voltage. It is very short video and unlisted just adding to content here...

https://youtu.be/Wgudim8_BPs
Try to Avoid CCA Networking Cables They are JUNK PERIOD!
Where there is Life there is Hope
James
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