- Chime.JPG (180.74 KiB) Viewed 414 times
AD110 Constant Reboots
AD110 Constant Reboots
Tried installing my new AD110 doorbell cam. My doorbell chime is a bit different, as it has 4 wires coming out of it. I can't get to my transformer (finished basement), but I'm pretty sure two of the wires (Left 2 AC) come from it. I've highlighted the wires that I know go to the doorbell. So, I've connected one of the wires on the chime kit to FRONT and then to one of the AC (Far Left) which I'm assuming would be equivalent to TRANS on most chimes. The unit just reboots constantly. I'm able to view the cam feed for as long as maybe 30 seconds or so and it reboots. This goes on indefinitely. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
Hello and Welcome to the forum
From what it sounds like let me make sure I have this right.
Transformer in basement comes to this panel your picture is of. Then your Front doorbell is marked in Yellow. Can I ask a dumb question to why your Chime kit isn't connected on the Yellow then?
Also what is the Voltage of your Transformer in the Basement?
Right now this is what I would do faced with this. Grab a Multi Meter, Remove Chime Kit, Remove doorbell (From now on known as camera, (Chime AKA noise maker will be known as Chime here on)) Next part needs 2 people or being creative. Need someone to hold multi meter on Front term and the other yellow term with the meter in AC Voltage, Then Someone needs to connect the 2 wires that was connected to the back of the camera together. (This will in a sense act like you pushed a normal doorbell button) at that time voltage needs to be read. Should be 16vac
Now at that same time there will be the sound of the Doorbell so the person with multi meter task might need ear plugs or head gear. If there is no voltage at that time then 2 yellow dots are not the connection your trying to work with. Once you know what 2 terminals make the chime ring when you put the 2 wires from camera together those are 2 you will want to connect your Chime Kit too (For this writing I am going to say it is the Yellow) so one wire of chime kit on Yellow, other on the other yellow and connect the Camera back to the doorbell wires and give it a minute or 2 to power up. Once you hear it say that it has connected to the Network (If it has been already connected once before) then you can move on
Once it says connected. Press the doorbell cameras button and it should ring the doorbell. if it hasn't then the doorbell chime will need to be added from app. You will want to click the Digital and choose how long you want the camera to latch the connection. Option is 3 to 7 That is how long the camera will Latch a Relay Closed to power your chime. If it is only needing a short power then choose 3 if needs more time the numbers are for seconds..
Please note that your doorbell transformer needs to be 16vac 30va and the wires should not be so long for the size of wire to make the voltage drop to low. If the voltage drops to 8 to 10vac when the wires were connected in the test above then the wires are to long or the transformer is to low of voltage.
Testing the voltage at the Transformer without anything working at the moment will give the Open Circuit Voltage (Mean if you were to test the volage at the transformer without the Chime Kit, and Camera being connected) it should give you the Transformer output voltage (That number will go down with load) so now with things connected testing at the Transformer it will have current voltage at Load, This will or could also change after someone presses the Cameras button and I would test all 3 voltage loads (Open, standby and Load) So in this case stand by would be after the camera has been connected for 3 to 5 minutes and not button presses. Load is after button is pressed.
From what it sounds like let me make sure I have this right.
Transformer in basement comes to this panel your picture is of. Then your Front doorbell is marked in Yellow. Can I ask a dumb question to why your Chime kit isn't connected on the Yellow then?
Also what is the Voltage of your Transformer in the Basement?
Right now this is what I would do faced with this. Grab a Multi Meter, Remove Chime Kit, Remove doorbell (From now on known as camera, (Chime AKA noise maker will be known as Chime here on)) Next part needs 2 people or being creative. Need someone to hold multi meter on Front term and the other yellow term with the meter in AC Voltage, Then Someone needs to connect the 2 wires that was connected to the back of the camera together. (This will in a sense act like you pushed a normal doorbell button) at that time voltage needs to be read. Should be 16vac
Now at that same time there will be the sound of the Doorbell so the person with multi meter task might need ear plugs or head gear. If there is no voltage at that time then 2 yellow dots are not the connection your trying to work with. Once you know what 2 terminals make the chime ring when you put the 2 wires from camera together those are 2 you will want to connect your Chime Kit too (For this writing I am going to say it is the Yellow) so one wire of chime kit on Yellow, other on the other yellow and connect the Camera back to the doorbell wires and give it a minute or 2 to power up. Once you hear it say that it has connected to the Network (If it has been already connected once before) then you can move on
Once it says connected. Press the doorbell cameras button and it should ring the doorbell. if it hasn't then the doorbell chime will need to be added from app. You will want to click the Digital and choose how long you want the camera to latch the connection. Option is 3 to 7 That is how long the camera will Latch a Relay Closed to power your chime. If it is only needing a short power then choose 3 if needs more time the numbers are for seconds..
Please note that your doorbell transformer needs to be 16vac 30va and the wires should not be so long for the size of wire to make the voltage drop to low. If the voltage drops to 8 to 10vac when the wires were connected in the test above then the wires are to long or the transformer is to low of voltage.
Testing the voltage at the Transformer without anything working at the moment will give the Open Circuit Voltage (Mean if you were to test the volage at the transformer without the Chime Kit, and Camera being connected) it should give you the Transformer output voltage (That number will go down with load) so now with things connected testing at the Transformer it will have current voltage at Load, This will or could also change after someone presses the Cameras button and I would test all 3 voltage loads (Open, standby and Load) So in this case stand by would be after the camera has been connected for 3 to 5 minutes and not button presses. Load is after button is pressed.
Be Safe.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
Hi, thanks for the response.
If I connect the chime kit to yellow, the door bell rings constantly. I tried that first, and realized I was closing the circuit causing it ring non stop. The way I have it now should be the equivalent to connecting one to FRONT and one to TRANS which is what the instructions describe. I'm not an electrician, but it became obviously real quick that wasn't the correct way to connect it.
My voltage meter fried a while back. I have another one coming today\tomorrow and I'll find out what we're getting at the chime and at the camera.
If I connect the chime kit to yellow, the door bell rings constantly. I tried that first, and realized I was closing the circuit causing it ring non stop. The way I have it now should be the equivalent to connecting one to FRONT and one to TRANS which is what the instructions describe. I'm not an electrician, but it became obviously real quick that wasn't the correct way to connect it.
My voltage meter fried a while back. I have another one coming today\tomorrow and I'll find out what we're getting at the chime and at the camera.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
I tested, and it's 16vac. Is there a problem with my chime kit then? If I connect it to the wires going out to the camera, it rings the chime constantly.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
Honestly I don't know. I don't know what the doorbell chime your working with and how it works. I tried to find another post some time ago where I thought it was AC V in and AC from transformer out. However that wasn't the case and after some time Had it worked out why and what however I can't find that post now. Or maybe they just Removed old and put in New I can't remember..
The issue is that doorbell isn't normal. So I don't know why it would ring with the Chime kit connected. What I do know is that the Chime kit is dual use. While this is a Theory it is odd that is making your system ring when you have it connected to the 2 wires it needs to be connected to.
If you think of your Camera as a Switch (like the normal one that would be at front or back door) then 1 of the things that the Chime Kit does is lets Voltage though from Transformer without Ringing the Chime.. That is normally how it works..
However with your system there is multi points for AC and loads of strange things that don't make sense without looking deeper.
How the camera works is with Chime kit installed between T and F or T and B normally it lets the voltage in from T to complete the path for voltage the Camera needs to be powered.. Then when the Camera button is pressed (That makes camera go into Closed Loop mode(aka Short Circuit)) like you pressed the normally placed button the Chime Kit takes that power it was passing and removes that so the Chime (noise maker) can sound. There is a Electronic Relay in the Chime kit that make that happen.
What I would need is some data about the 2 yellow spots. Com and Front. It almost looks like there is nothing that it is just a Open loop until button pressed and then that causes a closed loop (no voltage passes through that area) I am guessing as I said I don't know your Chime and there just to many connections on your chime for any of it to make sense.. Take a Multi Meter, Touch Ac and touch front is there reading? 0v? Then when button is pressed (again will be normal button or wires removed from doorbell camera and attached together) is there Voltage or does it read 0V?
See normally for a Doorbell chime there is 1 T and 2 other points either F and B/R. 1wire from Transformer, Then 1 from F going to Doorbell Switch on the other side of that switch is a wire that goes to the Transformer. There is no Voltage at the Chime until the button at Front is pushed. At your doorbell chime it has 2 AC that are connected and to me that means the 2 wires that are from the chime going to the doorbell switch is nothing but an Open Loop (Test this remove wires, Take short wire and touch F and Com and if the doorbell rings then it is as I expected and only an Open Loop.
Doing that on a normal doorbell with only Tran, F and B taking the wire off F and taking short wire and touching (empty F) and Trans will not get any tone...
The issue is that doorbell isn't normal. So I don't know why it would ring with the Chime kit connected. What I do know is that the Chime kit is dual use. While this is a Theory it is odd that is making your system ring when you have it connected to the 2 wires it needs to be connected to.
If you think of your Camera as a Switch (like the normal one that would be at front or back door) then 1 of the things that the Chime Kit does is lets Voltage though from Transformer without Ringing the Chime.. That is normally how it works..
However with your system there is multi points for AC and loads of strange things that don't make sense without looking deeper.
How the camera works is with Chime kit installed between T and F or T and B normally it lets the voltage in from T to complete the path for voltage the Camera needs to be powered.. Then when the Camera button is pressed (That makes camera go into Closed Loop mode(aka Short Circuit)) like you pressed the normally placed button the Chime Kit takes that power it was passing and removes that so the Chime (noise maker) can sound. There is a Electronic Relay in the Chime kit that make that happen.
What I would need is some data about the 2 yellow spots. Com and Front. It almost looks like there is nothing that it is just a Open loop until button pressed and then that causes a closed loop (no voltage passes through that area) I am guessing as I said I don't know your Chime and there just to many connections on your chime for any of it to make sense.. Take a Multi Meter, Touch Ac and touch front is there reading? 0v? Then when button is pressed (again will be normal button or wires removed from doorbell camera and attached together) is there Voltage or does it read 0V?
See normally for a Doorbell chime there is 1 T and 2 other points either F and B/R. 1wire from Transformer, Then 1 from F going to Doorbell Switch on the other side of that switch is a wire that goes to the Transformer. There is no Voltage at the Chime until the button at Front is pushed. At your doorbell chime it has 2 AC that are connected and to me that means the 2 wires that are from the chime going to the doorbell switch is nothing but an Open Loop (Test this remove wires, Take short wire and touch F and Com and if the doorbell rings then it is as I expected and only an Open Loop.
Doing that on a normal doorbell with only Tran, F and B taking the wire off F and taking short wire and touching (empty F) and Trans will not get any tone...
Be Safe.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
Edit Correction
I removed my Post. I thought I figured it out but I didn't..
There needs to be some Terminal Testing for Voltage.
From what the system looks like Com and Front are going to be Switch only with no Voltage and if that is the case then a Doorbell can't be installed with this system
The Picture I had drawn up is going to be wrong..
Remove wires from Com and Front and Test with a Multi Meter for Continuity Should read nothing. Then with power on to the transformer test Com and AC and see if there is any Voltage. Test from both AC terminals also test both AC terminals to Front (again this is without wires connected on Com or Front)
Then if there is no Voltage there take a short wire just long enough to touch Front to Com and it should ring This just means that the doorbell is using a Non powered switch, where most other doorbell system are not wired that way there is voltage running down that wire
I removed my Post. I thought I figured it out but I didn't..
There needs to be some Terminal Testing for Voltage.
From what the system looks like Com and Front are going to be Switch only with no Voltage and if that is the case then a Doorbell can't be installed with this system
The Picture I had drawn up is going to be wrong..
Remove wires from Com and Front and Test with a Multi Meter for Continuity Should read nothing. Then with power on to the transformer test Com and AC and see if there is any Voltage. Test from both AC terminals also test both AC terminals to Front (again this is without wires connected on Com or Front)
Then if there is no Voltage there take a short wire just long enough to touch Front to Com and it should ring This just means that the doorbell is using a Non powered switch, where most other doorbell system are not wired that way there is voltage running down that wire
Be Safe.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
So because of the way I think this Doorbell works..
Again please confirm that without any wires on Com and Front there is no Voltage when you test using a Multi Meter from Com and Front. testing both terminals and then testing each with the AC terminals. If my thought is correct then here is what you would need to do to make this work
You will need a Relay. While you will be working with 16vac you can use this 24vac Relay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144490363222?h ... SwbW1iTPoA
Then you will need to find what pins on the relay are for voltage and what ones are the switched. It should be marked on the relay or come with the Pin outs..
I think your system is like this. So in this it is setup so you know what I am thinking. Switch will be the Com and Front. and Power in is the AC/AC on your doorbell so I am clear
This is what is going to be needed to make your doorbell work with the camera
Again please confirm that without any wires on Com and Front there is no Voltage when you test using a Multi Meter from Com and Front. testing both terminals and then testing each with the AC terminals. If my thought is correct then here is what you would need to do to make this work
You will need a Relay. While you will be working with 16vac you can use this 24vac Relay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144490363222?h ... SwbW1iTPoA
Then you will need to find what pins on the relay are for voltage and what ones are the switched. It should be marked on the relay or come with the Pin outs..
I think your system is like this. So in this it is setup so you know what I am thinking. Switch will be the Com and Front. and Power in is the AC/AC on your doorbell so I am clear
- OddChime1.jpg (32.52 KiB) Viewed 360 times
- OddChimeRelay.jpg (56.24 KiB) Viewed 360 times
Be Safe.
Re: AD110 Constant Reboots
I actually just sent it back, tried bypassing the run to the front door and wired the camera directly with the chime kit and it still was continuously rebooting. I already have a multi-camera system that uses Blue Iris and I was going to add this as an additional view for coverage. It's just not worth the hassle to get it working, I'll likely add another Wifi camera with a wider FOV. Thanks for you help in trying to get it work, just wasn't meant to be I guess. 