I have the Nutone LA600WH digital chime. It allows playing of MP3 files. I have 10 seconds of DEVO's "No Place Like Home" as my chime.
When I had the Ring Pro, their chime kit allowed about five seconds of the song to play before stopping.
With the Amcrest 110 and chime kit, it allows about two seconds of the song to play before stopping.
So the question is, how can I hack the chime kit to provide power to the chime for at least 10 seconds? Or is there another existing chime kit I could replace it with that will do the trick? I'm open to soldering one from scratch if I have to.
Thanks, I did not know you could set the time in the app.
However, it's more like 15 seconds I need and the 10 second setting lasts about 8 seconds. Maybe I can hack the app to last longer? Or perhaps I can put in a request to Amcrest to add more time?
Or you can setup a Relay system with a TI 555 Timer and set the timer for however long you want... I am sure there are some out there that will work for this.. It would be an Ultimate hack really but not really on the other hand it would just be a circuit with a relay that would latch the power for the doorbell...
All you would need to do is setup the camera to latch the Relay Circuit that would then send the power to your doorbell for the time set..
The problem with a relay is it requires two separate power sources. Currently I have one transformer connecting both doorbell and chime. There is no way to separate the two without wall destruction.
I am considering a relay in case I wire it with a Z-wave remote control, which would then send a signal to my home control hub to activate a Z-wave MP3 doorbell, but first I am looking to see if I can get the existing setup working by just keeping the electricity to the doorbell on a few seconds longer.
Sadly there is an issue with the Amcrest Doorbell doing it much longer.. Right now there are still people out there with Power Issues without even having the new Delay in Time added as that was a New feature of the App...
Problem is when the system latches inside of the camera that power is no longer going to the camera when the button is pushed it is like the camera is Shorted (If you think about how the Normal button worked Power only sent to doorbell when button pushed) that was because when button was pushed it caused a Complete Circuit for the Power to pass to the doorbell where before it only had 1 leg on power... Well same is for the camera however this is one step to power fail for the camera.. However because of Pictures posted I know that the Camera has 2 large Caps aka Super Capacitors that are holding the power for the camera while the button is being pushed... I will tell you without these 2 Caps this camera would fail everytime the button was pushed because as that happens the power now longer is going to the camera and is making a Pathway for the power to flow....
So with that said... I think the Dayton Relay would be the perfect setup as long as it was a 24vac doorbell anyway because it does need to be 24vac up to 240vac and that is only 1 amp but there are others out there just was a all in 1 setup that would/could work for the needs and cost isn't to crazy... there is a 10amp model that is maybe 15 or 20 more but does offer more options as well... So for that option with the link to Zoro I would guess that will work with one power.. IT show power in, power of switch and latched output in 5 pins.. I would need to see the Diagram for the relay system to draw a Diagram of the setup that might need 1 pigtail but is very do able with things already made
Thanks for the explanation of how that works with the capacitors.
I'm not getting how you would use a relay with only one power source. Relays use two separate circuits and each circuit needs its own power source - unless this timer relay changes the definition of relays. For a hack to work it would likely need its own capacitors - like the camera has - to apply the power from those capacitors to the chime. Also a 24v relay wont work for a 16v doorbell transformer.
In any case, I have decided to make this a little easier on myself by shortening my recorded chime to fit in the allotted time.
If this doesn't work adequately, I might use a 12VAC relay with a battery-powered Z-wave button to send a signal to my home automation hub which I will then use to play sound from a Z-wave MP3 device. I ordered the Z-wave MP3 device to play with. I also ordered the Fibaro big red button. If nothing else, I can create the box from the movie "The Box" and have it flash lights and play creepy sounds when pressed.
Interesting I have been working with Relays and Circuits for 40 years I didn't know that I needed 2 power sources to work with a Relay... I guess I have missed some things
About the 24vac I was trying to find you something in as short amount of time to give you an idea of how something could work and maybe looking little deeper I might have found the 16vac version sorry I have 16-34vac Doorbell and my camera is about the same even though they say 16 to 24vac because they need some space for the extra voltage that the supplies really work at... I have made many circuits and other things with relays and one power source.. However Yeah I could take a 12v normal relay and use it for 120vac on the latched side using 2 power sources..
Like I said I didn't look at the device or look at the Schematic of the Relay system to see for sure that it would work infact I was offering some ideas on something that might work as i said might work without building any circuit?
Good luck in your Zwave and Automation system Hope you find what works for you and years of Enjoyment...
I was speaking specifically to this wiring situation, not in general. In general you could use the same power source to power both sides of a relay but the problem with this particular circuit is that power to the chime is cut off by the doorbell camera. No power to one side of a relay at the chime means no power to both sides if there is only one power source that is now cut off (without running more wires through the walls). There are only two wires at the chime and both are from the same leg of the transformer. The other leg of the transformer goes directly to the video doorbell and does not reach the chime. The transformer, video doorbell, and chime are huge distances apart in my house and would require significant wall damage to change the wiring. No electrical outlets nearby either.
So any solution to keep applying power after it's cut off by the video doorbell would need either capacitors or batteries. Or rewiring by digging through walls.
I have no idea what's inside those chime power kit modules, but adding capacitors to extend the length of time electricity is available to the chime could solve the problem. I don't have the knowledge to create such a circuit, though.
