I have a IP2M-853EW speed dome camera that is about 2 years old. The other day I noticed it was off-line and when I went to investigate the camera, all I could hear was a constant rapid clicking sound. I pulled the camera down and have it on a desk and when add a POE connection it does the same. It takes a second but once it starts it does not stop clicking until I remove the ethernet cable. There is also no network connection to the camera when powered up and clicking. I tried another POE injector but same results. I opened a case with Amcrest support but it was pretty much useless. I'm getting links to read about the warranty. I'm fairly certain its out of warranty at this point. I also tried the hard reset but get the same results. I'm wondering is this is some sort of power supply issue or something fixable. It was a pretty expensive unit and I hope it's not just a brick at this point. I tried to post an MP3 of the sound but it won't let me. Hoping someone may have experienced this or might be able to point me in the direction needed.
Thanks - B
IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
Hello and Welcome to the forum
Sorry to hear your having some issues with the camera.. There are some things that I am guessing that might have caused this and one if the Biggest issue is CCA cabling it is a PTZ camera killer more so if it was being POE powered... With local power via the plug for such then CCA is only bad for Network and connection... Next issue is to much power needs for the Length of cable used.. While this don't always result in fast death it can destroy a PTZ camera.. Then we have to take in facts of if this camera died as a result of it freezing with the Ice Storm, Mine needed my Heat Gun to Thaw out however I do have an Older not as Advanced PTZ camera with larger zoom but still kind of built with same type setup.. I could tilt but not pan. Took my heat gun and spent 2 or 3 minutes thawing the Ice that built up on it..
Sadly Fixing the camera I don't want to say that it can't be done. I have my self fixed in my History of Electronics of over 40 years more then 6 PTZ cameras over the last 10 years. Sadly this can be something that is very difficult to do with out having Schematics and no one is giving any of them up that I have been able to find anywhere so all my Repairs have taken much longer then they should.
Then comes the hardest part for some of these issues as well. Most cameras were made in China and some were made with Parts they don't want you to know what they are, So you find an issue that leads you to a IC chip and you try and trouble shoot that without being able to find a Code for the chip. However knowing what electronics are you know what to do however over time you find that isn't working they added a chip that wasn't something made for the type.. (Specialty Made Chip). So then you have to buy a few different chips to find one that might work..
However if there is an issue with the Camera it self then that is a different issue.. Some not all have Camera Modules that are added to these PTZ Queens and as such one can at times find a Replacement Module to replace the bad one and other times that can't be done because someone has a Broke dome nothing that would help work with parts needed...
Clicking sounds. This could be related to Motors, However that most times don't effect the cameras ability to come online it would just not pan or tilt and would give an error even my older analog cameras have this checking when first starting up...
There is a lot of things going on in side most of these cameras, They are in most cases, maybe not little Mini PT cameras but fill sized PTZ Dome cameras normally will have a Complex system inside, From Power Board where yours is POE so it will have a Dual Bridge Rectifier Power supply board that would take your 48 to 56v power and convert it down to 12, 5, 3.3 and 1.5v and then loads of wires and then more then likely will have 2 or more Slip Rings, camera board, (OR Module) and micro computer board with all the encoding and digital building of what would then be sent to the end user.. There are more things then that if there is Audio or mic and alarms and all kinds of things...
In the end you have to ask your self what it cost for this camera.. Most of the Cameras today don't cost as much as the cameras that I have repaired that 8 to 10 years ago were bought for 1500 to 2500 for each of them so the cost to replace was much more then the cost to repair.. Where again you have to ask your self, a Camera that cost 250 to 450 that has 34,000 hours on it or sorry you said about 2 years old so that would be around 16k to 18k hours on it if running full time from day 1.. Anyway would buying a new one be better then the one repaired and then the life expectation after repair is not so great because again there is no Schematics so even after a Repair of the current issue the camera comes back to life, there might have been something else that has been damaged and waiting to fail.. Without having the info about testing and measurements of this point to that point it is hard to know in the end just how long the Repair would last..
Sorry to hear your having some issues with the camera.. There are some things that I am guessing that might have caused this and one if the Biggest issue is CCA cabling it is a PTZ camera killer more so if it was being POE powered... With local power via the plug for such then CCA is only bad for Network and connection... Next issue is to much power needs for the Length of cable used.. While this don't always result in fast death it can destroy a PTZ camera.. Then we have to take in facts of if this camera died as a result of it freezing with the Ice Storm, Mine needed my Heat Gun to Thaw out however I do have an Older not as Advanced PTZ camera with larger zoom but still kind of built with same type setup.. I could tilt but not pan. Took my heat gun and spent 2 or 3 minutes thawing the Ice that built up on it..
Sadly Fixing the camera I don't want to say that it can't be done. I have my self fixed in my History of Electronics of over 40 years more then 6 PTZ cameras over the last 10 years. Sadly this can be something that is very difficult to do with out having Schematics and no one is giving any of them up that I have been able to find anywhere so all my Repairs have taken much longer then they should.
Then comes the hardest part for some of these issues as well. Most cameras were made in China and some were made with Parts they don't want you to know what they are, So you find an issue that leads you to a IC chip and you try and trouble shoot that without being able to find a Code for the chip. However knowing what electronics are you know what to do however over time you find that isn't working they added a chip that wasn't something made for the type.. (Specialty Made Chip). So then you have to buy a few different chips to find one that might work..
However if there is an issue with the Camera it self then that is a different issue.. Some not all have Camera Modules that are added to these PTZ Queens and as such one can at times find a Replacement Module to replace the bad one and other times that can't be done because someone has a Broke dome nothing that would help work with parts needed...
Clicking sounds. This could be related to Motors, However that most times don't effect the cameras ability to come online it would just not pan or tilt and would give an error even my older analog cameras have this checking when first starting up...
There is a lot of things going on in side most of these cameras, They are in most cases, maybe not little Mini PT cameras but fill sized PTZ Dome cameras normally will have a Complex system inside, From Power Board where yours is POE so it will have a Dual Bridge Rectifier Power supply board that would take your 48 to 56v power and convert it down to 12, 5, 3.3 and 1.5v and then loads of wires and then more then likely will have 2 or more Slip Rings, camera board, (OR Module) and micro computer board with all the encoding and digital building of what would then be sent to the end user.. There are more things then that if there is Audio or mic and alarms and all kinds of things...
In the end you have to ask your self what it cost for this camera.. Most of the Cameras today don't cost as much as the cameras that I have repaired that 8 to 10 years ago were bought for 1500 to 2500 for each of them so the cost to replace was much more then the cost to repair.. Where again you have to ask your self, a Camera that cost 250 to 450 that has 34,000 hours on it or sorry you said about 2 years old so that would be around 16k to 18k hours on it if running full time from day 1.. Anyway would buying a new one be better then the one repaired and then the life expectation after repair is not so great because again there is no Schematics so even after a Repair of the current issue the camera comes back to life, there might have been something else that has been damaged and waiting to fail.. Without having the info about testing and measurements of this point to that point it is hard to know in the end just how long the Repair would last..
Be Safe.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
So something I thought I would ask and I am sure Amcrest if you were talking with them they might have already had you try it if you didn't already.. However have you tried to see if the Camera will come to life with a 12v power supply.. I think your camera Don't quote me on this but I think it is POE or 12v able power? Have you tried to power it from a different power outside the POE?
Be Safe.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
Thank you for the information and tips. After reading your post I can confirm that I am not using CCA cable. Its 100% copper and I'm making my own runs. I live in the North East so I'm definitely susceptible to cold temps. That said, the camera mounted below a large overhang. I also have a another brand turret camera mounted below that. Both cameras are POE and the other camera has been operational for well over two years now. I'm using a Ubiquiti POE-48-24W-G for this Amcrest camera. The cable run is roughly 20 feet. The camera does have 12v power adapter but I do not have the power supply for that. That sounds like a good idea though.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
Thanks for the Update.. Sorry about CCA comment it is just a known issue with POE cameras at distance.. 20 feet not so much it is normally an issue with longer distances..
12v something I would look at if the camera has a normal 2.1mm plug like other cameras is I would find a 5amp I did a search on Ebay and found one that I would buy the seller sadly is in Calif, So delay from there is about 2 days longer then normal at least it was for what I bought last week from Sac, there was 2 days fell off radar and out for Delivery today... Anyway this is the listing number just go to the website and do a search for 203081264412 and it should come up with the listing.. I personally don't know them it was just the first one that I seen for a Price I would pay and to be honest at that price I would buy more then 1.. Can never have to many good sized power supplies...
12v something I would look at if the camera has a normal 2.1mm plug like other cameras is I would find a 5amp I did a search on Ebay and found one that I would buy the seller sadly is in Calif, So delay from there is about 2 days longer then normal at least it was for what I bought last week from Sac, there was 2 days fell off radar and out for Delivery today... Anyway this is the listing number just go to the website and do a search for 203081264412 and it should come up with the listing.. I personally don't know them it was just the first one that I seen for a Price I would pay and to be honest at that price I would buy more then 1.. Can never have to many good sized power supplies...
Be Safe.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
This is a different camera. However it is a bullet 4mp zoom camera POE that has died. Sadly this one is bad at a Voltage Regulator or one of the caps around it. Sadly don't know right now as I made a mistake and just blew up my ESR meter lol. Phone calls and Electronics can be bad combo. Thought I removed power when phone rang but didn't and testing these things when there is voltage on them isn't good for my ESR meter. Hope its just a fuse. Anyway still doing some testing but thought I would take picture show what kind of sizes someone has to work with even in a POE Dome most everyone know size of normal HDD screw that is in picture to help show size right click picture show in New tab for larger picture when I get to computer I will resize and post smaller image but for now. Also those wires showing are for zoom lens
Be Safe.
Re: IP2M-853EW rapid clicking issue.
OK Well I reduced the size of that image now and re uploaded it.. Issue was I sent it when I was away from my computer from my phone and so it was full size off the phone..
Today took a picture of the Defective part Next to the Screw alone and sadly now I will have to do some work to find a Replacement for it. Seeing there is no DOCS that I can find for the Marking on the part. So there is a large data base of parts from like Ti and Mouser to name a couple however that part could be a LDO or a NPN and without having a idea really I am guessing on parts around it that it is a LDO however replacing it with any random one will not work long if at all.. So when working in this field one could have donner boards for testing and being able to take a part off one board to put on another however that sadly isn't always a safe bet.. That is kind of good for making Repairs to laptops or things that have soldered in Drives and you want your data removed and cell phones however something like this a NEW part is better in the long run because CCTV cameras are running full time 24/7 so best to have new... Now I wait maybe find someone with same camera, Have them take apart and take Measurements when powered on so I know what I am working with and can find a replacement.. For now I have to wait for a part. Lucky for me this is my Camera so there is not a Large push for fixing this..
Anyway just wanted to show the size and yes I know this is the bad part because now that it is removed the Short to Ground that was on the cameras board is gone. However the camera needs to have this part for it to work so it isn't working at this point yet..
Today took a picture of the Defective part Next to the Screw alone and sadly now I will have to do some work to find a Replacement for it. Seeing there is no DOCS that I can find for the Marking on the part. So there is a large data base of parts from like Ti and Mouser to name a couple however that part could be a LDO or a NPN and without having a idea really I am guessing on parts around it that it is a LDO however replacing it with any random one will not work long if at all.. So when working in this field one could have donner boards for testing and being able to take a part off one board to put on another however that sadly isn't always a safe bet.. That is kind of good for making Repairs to laptops or things that have soldered in Drives and you want your data removed and cell phones however something like this a NEW part is better in the long run because CCTV cameras are running full time 24/7 so best to have new... Now I wait maybe find someone with same camera, Have them take apart and take Measurements when powered on so I know what I am working with and can find a replacement.. For now I have to wait for a part. Lucky for me this is my Camera so there is not a Large push for fixing this..
Anyway just wanted to show the size and yes I know this is the bad part because now that it is removed the Short to Ground that was on the cameras board is gone. However the camera needs to have this part for it to work so it isn't working at this point yet..
Be Safe.